Day 3: Monday, June 22 2009 – Granja de Moreruela to Tabara, 21K
I woke up grumpy and late, as per my usual, and got a café con leche at the bar/restaurant across the porch from the alburgue. I asked the woman there how to get back to the trail, and she walked her bike with me to the start of the “new” route toward Orense. This route was listed in my CSJ book as now being waymarked, and was also described as being superior to the “old” route, which was via paved roads.
But in reality, the route wasn’t waymarked at all, and was totally confusing! Here is is where the Camino splits– One way goes north to Astorga to eventually join the Camino Frances (not my way), and one way veers west to Orense (my way).
But, to go to Orense via the “new route,” the book said to first follow the signs toward Astorga, and then to turn left. But figuring out what exactly was meant by left was difficult to parse out, to say the least.
For even though the bike lady had pointed me up the hill, and the extraordinarily old ladies sweeping their porch I’d passed (now two of several who’d asked, “Sola?? Vas solita???” and clucked their tongues finding out I was walking alone) seemed to imply I was going the right way, I arrived at the top of the hill to… a big confusing fork. With no flechas (arrows).